Sunday, May 1, 2011

Surviving Mt Pulag!

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I have always thought of myself as a mountain goat. My wife on the other hand is a certified beach bum. So when she told me that she wanted to experience camping before project baby, I suggested to do the Mt. Pulag trek which combines both mountain trekking and camping in one go. Being able to have a go at it while seeing the view from the Philippines' third highest peak (2,922 meters above sea level) is definite bonus!

After a last minute decision, we opted to join a travel group (Trail Adventours) versus doing a DIY climb.

So last April 15, we took a late night Victory Liner bus from Pasay to Baguio. The call time was 2130h and we were there even before this time. But the bus we took doesnt leave before 2230h so we had to wait for more than an hour at the bus station. Here's Yeng while we were waiting for the rest of the group. Our packs were as big as her sitting down.
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At around 0430h we arrived at the terminal in Baguio and we took a rented jeep to the Ranger Station which was the jump off point for the Ambangeg trail to Mt. Pulag.
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On the way we had a couple of stop overs. First off was Pinkan Jo (which I think translates to Pinggan Mo). I had a bowlful of papaitan which is one of my favorite dishes. Just thinking about it makes me remember the feeling of the sebo that formed on my lips after sipping the hot bitter broth on that cold Baguio morning. It was sooooo good that I forgot to take a picture of it. Here is the empty bowl with bits and pieces of whats left of the papaitan. Could only have been better if it was kambing instead of beef.
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We also bought extra rice which we planned on using for the sinangag for tomorrow mornings tapsilog.

After breakfast, I asked Yeng if she wanted to ride on top of the jeepney which she has never done before. Though I have done it a couple of times in our home province, it was a totally different and exhilerating experience to do it in zig-zagging roads.
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We rode on top of the jeepney until we reached the next stop over, the Ambuklao dam. Too bad the dam was closed when we visited but the scene of calm blue green waters surrounded by mountains was still a sight to behold.
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Next stop was the DOST office where we had to register for the climb and where we also received a briefing about the local's customs and also about the rules and regulations enforced in the Mt. Pulag National Park. It was also here where we received a short introduction from our climb organizers.
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The jump off point was 1.5 hours of rough and dust covered roads away from the DOST office. After a quick lunch (Yeng and I packed sandwiches) at the small nipa hut, we were met by our guides and porters. Yeng and I carried with us two packs. The heavier pack had 1 sleeping bag, 3L of water, our two man tent, our cookware food supplies, my clothes and a tripod. The lighter pack had 1 sleeping bag, 3L of water, Yengs clothes, toiletries and our medicine kit. We gave the heavier pack to our porter, which to my embarrassment and surprise was a local lady. But my embarrassment quickly turned to admiration because she hefted the bigger sack like it was nothing.
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Having made all the arrangements with the guides and porters we were off to the camp site!
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The first part of the trail was dominated by landscapes filled with terraced farms where the locals grow various vegetables. The temperature was cool even as the sun beat down on us with the sparse cover of trees offering little resistance to the suns rays! High SPF lotions are highly recommended!
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See those peaks in the background? That's where we're headed.
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Along the way we also saw some locals. Hmmm poor pig, your probably end up as bagnet hehe.
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Just before we hit Camp Site #1, the vegetation and landscape transformed from harvested land to virgin mossy forests. Huge tree trunks and the ground from where they sprout from were covered with moss. The foliage of the trees provided adequate protection from the suns rays and the drop in temperature was immediately felt as soon as we entered the cover of the trees.
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After more than 3 hours of walking, we finally reached a break in the tree line and just right where the trees were fighting the dwarf bamboos for dominion was Camp Site #2. On this site, the peaks were covered with miniature versions of bamboo and because of the lack of any imposing trees we had a clear view of the Mt. Pulag peak.
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A short climb up from the main camp brought us to the camp extension where we will be camping for the night.
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First order of the day was to set up the shelter as the day was quickly giving in to the night and with it goes the warmth of the sun.
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After setting up our tent and unpacking our needs for that evening, we started to prepare dinner. Penne pasta with garlic sausages tossed in garlic-basil-tomato sauce. With extra parmesan shavings for good measure.
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Still with available light, I snapped up some pictures just before the fog and evening took over the camp.
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When the sun finally set, the camp was buzzing whith hikers preparing for their dinner and the next day's assault of the peak.
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At around 2000h, the camp was already yawning as the hazy moon watched over everyone.
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The next day started early with a 0330h wake up call. As Yeng and I slept almost already dressed with the clothes we will be wearing for the assault, we just had to put on our shoes, extra layers, lighting , water bottles and our camera gear. After a quick bite of PBJ sandwiches we were off to the peak!
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Armed with torches and LED lanterns we made our way through the grassy slopes that were the final few kilometers before the peak. It was actually quite a view where one could see lines of bright light wrapping its way around the slope all the way from the camp to the peak. It reminded me of fireflies.

After about an hour of walking we finally hit pay dirt! 2992 meters above sea level baby!
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I can not really explain how beautiful the view was. It was 360 degrees of awesomeness. Its a sight to see the sun peeking out of the horizon and out of the clouds into the bright blue spotless sky. As words cannot do it justice here are some pictures of the view.
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Of course some photos of Yeng and myself.
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Someone not minding the cold temperature.
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After about an hour and a half we headed back to the camp. The grassy slopes were also a sight to behold, and one can see where the tree line ends and where the dwarf bamboos start. It was like an ongoing battle for dominion of that non-existent space in between.

After about 30min we were back in the camp. While Yeng was frying the tapa I was busy packing up the sleeping bags. After finishing up the sleeping bags, I traded places with Yeng and continued to prepare the sinangag (frid rice) for the tapsilog. I also reheated to the chicken pork adobo I prepared the day before climb. Hmmm. One day old adobo!
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After breakfast, we packed up our stuff and Yeng volunteered to carry our pack. Very gentlemanly of me, hehe.
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If anyone was wondering where the restrooms were, the brave folks use the pit latrines. I actually would have preferred doing it out on the wild.
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We arrived at the ranger station after about two and a half hours of walking. We have now officially survived Mt. Pulag!
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As you can see I was by then wearing slippers because I threw my shoes in the bin immediately after arriving at the ranger station. Because even as we survived the climb, my shoes didn't! I had to hold it together with tape and about 20min before tha ranger station it finally gave way!
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We took the jeepney bus ride to Baguio where we made another quick stop at the Ambuklao dam. This time it dam was open and the power and migght of the ambuklao river was in full view.
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We reach Baguion at around 1600h and after a quick bath at SM we headed off to Cafe by the Ruins for dinner.
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Bagnet with native red rice
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Labong soup
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Hot native chocolate to cap off dinner
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After dinner we headed off to the bus terminal and took the bus back to Manila. Overall the experience was great and I'm actually now trying to convince Yeng for another trek up another mountain!

Thanks for looking!